Overview
Let’s be up front about the biggest drawback to cycling in Ireland: the often nasty weather. Cool and wet seems to be the norm. We highly recommend that, as best you can, to take advantage of (instead of fighting) the strong prevailing west or south west winds. Now lets talk about the two areas that make cycling (or travel for that matter) a joy in Ireland; First, the people. They’re warm, friendly, helpful, well informed, approachable and entertaining. This is all available to you at the nearest pub.
Second, there’s the safety question; we feel it’s the safest place on earth. There’s an honesty here that you can’t find elsewhere. You can simply trust the Irish. Finally, there is an extensive quiet back road system that serves the cyclist well. A good map would be enough but armed with the CTC (Cyclist Touring Club) route descriptions from the web http://www.ctc.org.uk/, and/or their 1979 out of print guide book The CTC Route Guide on cycling in Britain and Ireland guide book; you can easily negotiate this Emerald Isle with a minimum of hassle. But remember, bring your raingear.
We rode in Ireland in 1985, 1989, 1993 and 1996. Our route descriptions always start with the most recent trip
How We Rate This Trip
Roads: 9
These are not the well engineered, fast moving highways I’m talking about. Rather it’s the tiny country roads that interconnect to bring you hours of uninterrupted biking pleasure. Almost all these byways are paved but you are riding every hill and dale since these secondary roads follow the terrain. Especially in the west, you can simply meander on these minor roads. Even the highways are usually ok to ride although they usually don’t offer a paved side shoulder
Traffic: 8
Outside of Dublin, really the only large population concentration, there are simply no places that you can’t get to on quiet roads. There are enough minor roads to take as alternatives to the main roads. In the west, even the main roads are usually quiet enough to ride if you need to cover more territory. In Dublin, there are bikers so with a planned route off the main arteries you can get around. An exception to this lack of traffic can be encountered around the touristy but beautiful Ring of Kerry especially in high season
Weather: 2
Ah, here’s the rub. Although the sun can shine with clear brightness in Ireland it has to be admitted that it is not renowned for doing so. “Soft Day” is what the Irish call a morning when dampness in the air blurs the view. The east side of the island is sunnier but, especially in the west, the lush fields and hedgerows are testament to the regular downpours of rain. Good wet weather clothes are a must. The weather is cool and often showery in the summer. We’ve had good luck in May.
Winds: 3
The rain clouds are blown inland by frequent strong west or southwest winds. Especially in the west, the winds can rip off the ocean. If you are flying in, it’s best to go east from Shannon rather than west from Dublin.
Scenery: 8
The countryside is made up of a central rolling plain guarded by mountains on either end. The most scenic riding areas are the counties of Wicklow, just south of Dublin, Cork in the south, Kerry in the southwest and Mayo and Galway in the northwest. All offer scenery that is a blend of wooded valleys and low mountains. Additionally, throughout the Emerald Isle, the lush, green countryside is the highlight even though grandeur is mostly lacking.
Information: 9
The Bartholomew Irish Travel Map series covers Ireland and Ulster in five sheets. The Irish Tourist offices offer friendly and efficient help in all matters including recommended bicycle routes and bicycle touring companies. As in England, we still rely on the CTC (Cyclist’s Touring Club) for information. We would still use the 1979 out of print CTC Route Guide to cycling in Britain and Ireland by Christa Gausden and Nicholas Crane. If you can’t find a copy, contact us and we can get you a copy. All our described routes are basically taken straight from this guide. But what ever you do, consult the CTC at http://www.ctc.org.uk/ Best of all, if you do get lost, the locals will set you on the right road with a twinkle in eye and a smile.
Road Safety: 7
There is a good network of secondary roads throughout the country. They are usually well posted and easy to navigate. Automobile traffic is light and the drivers you do see are generally very courteous to the cyclist. The only real issue you will encounter is the hedgerows which are above eye level so that visibility is often limited especially on winding roads. Often you can hear an approaching car before you see it. Also, these country lanes are narrow but there are almost no big vehicles on these lanes.
General Safety: 10
With a rating system like our simplified 1 to 10 method, there must be at least one destination in the world which measures up to a “10” or our highest rating. Well, for overall safety, Ireland is the place. We recognize that there is always some crime but in places where you bike, that is in the countryside and smaller towns, there is virtually no crime. Not even sneak thieves. This is the honesty standard of the world.
Value: 5
With the boom times that Ireland is experiencing, the prices for accommodations and food have gone up. Quality, cleanliness and freshness are part of the deal. You will seldom be disappointed in any B & B or restaurant. But you will pay. Still, in the smaller towns, the prices are somewhat modest. Dublin, on the other hand, has gotten expensive.
Fluids: 9
Do I start with the Guinness or the water? If I were Irish, I’d start with the Guinness but as a biker, the water comes first. All tap water is clean and tastes good. Anything else you crave is available everywhere, tea, coffee, juices, sodas and bottled water. In the Pubs where the Guinness and other beers etc. are dispensed, you can satisfy not only your post ride thirst but your curiosity about the area. The whole town eventually comes into the Pub and curiosity draws them to you.
Food: 6
The food, especially the seafood, is fresh if not creative. In the larger towns, you can find some Indian and Italian food for variety. Pub grub is hearty and good but not exactly healthy. There are the usual Fish & Chip shops. At the B & Bs you will get a substantial meal which serves us well when we are biking.
Accomodations: 7
Campgrounds are spread out but with permission you can camp just about anywhere. All forms of accommodations are available but the B & Bs are ubiquitous. The smallest hamlet will have a room either in someone’s home or above the pub. They vary but we never stayed in a dirty room; threadbare, maybe but never dirty. Your hosts will always be friendly, warm and helpful and this is why we only stay in B & Bs. Also there are the big breakfasts with a big helping of conversation.
People: 10
The friendliness of the Irish is a legend based on truth. You are sure to meet with much helpfulness.
There’s the common language. There’s the fact that language and wordsmithing is an art form. Then there are the pubs and B & Bs which bring the Irish joy of life right up to you. There were actually times when we would make sure we were alone before consulting our maps; because the first person by would offer to help and that led to conversation and more information than we needed.
Culture: 8
There is a distinct and comely way of life here. Let’s call the pubs the cultural laboratories of Ireland. The spoken word is an art form that is colorful and playful. Then there is the ancient culture of the Celts, the old Christian foundations, and many rich remains of the earlier centuries A.D. Superimposed on this is the English occupation and the Irish fight for independence. This made “Irish ness” distinct, Irish music and dance is truly celebrated everywhere. The written and spoken word is art.
History: 6
Ireland is full of relics from its unique history. The Celts in Ireland were left unmolested in the earlier centuries A.D. and Celtic Christianity flourished, producing distinctive styles. You’ll find monastic ruins, stone tomb chambers, old Irish cathedrals and castles. The small size of the many Irish cathedrals and the cottages in the countryside don’t mean that they are not historic. There is an ancient way of life that in many ways is undisturbed today.
TOTAL SCORE 107
Route Descriptions and Maps
May 1996
Western Ireland
Into Shannon Airport then to Dingle then we cut across the River Shannon by Ferry then to Cliffs of Moher and Doolin.
We followed the CTC Guide so the route descriptions are left out and we refer you to the proper routes in this 1979 excellent guide. We have the route marked on the maps below. You have to join CTC (Cyclist Touring Club) to get their new route descriptions. Their web address is: http://www.ctc.org.uk/.
Shannon Airport to Limerick
39Ks
Route #317
Limerick to Ardagh
46Ks
Route #304
Ardagh to Tralee
68Ks
Route #303
Tralee to Dingle
46Ks
Route #302
Dingle to Dingle
59Ks
Route #295
(see above map)
Dingle to Tralee
46Ks
Route #302
(see above)
Tralee to Tarbert (for the car ferry across the Shannon River) to Kilkee
52Ks
Out of Tralee on L104 but cut off to Ballybunnion then L105 to Tarbert.
Take car ferry. On the other side pick up route #318 to Kilkee.
Kilkee to Ennistimon
48Ks
Route #320
Ennistimon to Doolin
60Ks
Route #321
May 1993
Western Ireland
We flew into Shannon Airport then along the west coast to the Cliffs of Moher, Doolin, Galway, Clifden and Westport. We repeated this trip in 2000 and it remains the same.
We followed the CTC Guide so the route descriptions are left out and we refer you to the proper routes in this 1979 excellent guide. We have the route marked on the maps below. You have to join CTC (Cyclist Touring Club) to get their new route descriptions. Their web address is: http://www.ctc.org.uk/.
Shannon Airport to Clarecastle
39Ks
Route #317
Clarecastle to Kilkee
61Ks
Route #318
Kilkee to Ennistimon
48Ks
Route #320
Ennistimon to Kinvara
74Ks
Route #321
Kinvara to Galway
34Ks
Route #322
Galway to Screeb
52Ks
Route #323
Screeb to Clifden
72Ks
Route #324
Clifden to Westport
115Ks
Route #325
Westport to Dublin by Auto.
May 1989
Southwest Ireland and across to Dublin
We landed in Shannon and encountered bad weather: on and off rain and very strong westerly winds. This changed our trip. We followed the CTC Guide so the route descriptions are left out and we refer you to the proper routes in this 1979 excellent guide. We have the route marked on the maps below. You have to join CTC (Cyclist Touring Club) to get their new route descriptions. Their web address is: http://www.ctc.org.uk/.
Shannon Airport to Ennis
17Ks
5Ks out to the Hwy N18 then left for 12Ks to Ennis. A few hills and a busy highway.
(maps above)
Ennis to Gort
21Ks
Out on busy N18. Strong southwest winds make it an easy ride. 11Ks to junction just after Crusheen to Tubber at 12Ks then to Grot 21Ks. In Gort, pick up routes from CTC Book.
(Maps above)
Gort to Kinvarra
10Ks
Route #221
(Maps above)
Kinvarra to Galway
34Ks
Route #322
(Maps above)
Galway to Kilconnell
51Ks
Route #332
Kilconnell to Athlone
56K
Route #333
Athlone to Killucan
61Ks
Route #334
Killucan to Dublin
73Ks
Route 335
Dublin to Killarney
By train
Killarney to Killorglin
24Ks
Route #296
Killorglin to Kenmare (Ring of Kerry)
135Ks
Route 293
Kenmare to Bantry
140Ks
Route #292
Bantry to Ross Carbery
119Ks
Route #291
Ross Carbery to Cork
72Ks
Route #290
Cork to Ballyhooly (side trip to Fermoy out of Ballyhooly)
31Ks
Route #300
Ballyholly to Limerick (overnight in Fermoy then back to Ballyhooly)
79Ks
Route 301
Limerick to Shannon Airport
39Ks
Route #317
May 1985
Southwest Ireland
This was our first trip to Ireland. We flew in and out of Shannon Airport in the west. We had good weather and just wandered around with our then new 1979 CTC Guide. You have to join CTC (Cyclist Touring Club) to get the route descriptions; it’s worth it! Their web address is: http://www.ctc.org.uk/. We followed the CTC Guide so the route descriptions are left out and we refer you to the proper routes in this 1979 guide. We have the route marked on the maps below.
Shannon Airport to Limerick
24Ks
Route #317
Limerick to Ardagh
46Ks
Route #304
Ardagh to Tralee
68Ks
Route #303
Tralee to Dingle
46Ks
Route #302
Dingle to Dingle
59Ks
Route #295
Dingle to Killorglin
53Ks
Route 294
Killorglin to Killarney
24Ks
Route #296
We took a ferry which was marked on our Bartholomew Map that crossed the River Maine for a short cut to Killorglin. It was an open row boat and we had to hail it from the opposite shore. It’s probably not there anymore.
Killarney to Millstreet
42Ks
Route #298
Milstreet to Ballyhooly
54Ks
Route #305
Ballyhooly to Limerick
79Ks
Route #301
Limerick to Shannon Airport
Road Stories
Riding northeast out of Shannon Airport, a stiff Southwest wind at our back, we looked up at the passing patch of blue sky filled with hope and optimism. A couple miles down the road, we turned west to head for the Dingle Peninsula. The wind blew Sally and I to a stop. Faced with brisk winds off the Atlantic, we simply decided to go with the flow. Three days later, we were in Dublin.
We were full of anxious optimism as we steered eastward toward Athlone and Dublin feeling the warmth of the sun in that pocket of stillness created on a downwind run. We rode on side roads, which meander, and when our vector and the wind vector varied, we shoved hard against the wind to steer straight.
Then the cloud rolled in, one giant cloud about the size of the Atlantic. We could deal with the wind by changing our destination; we could deal with the cold by buying extra sweatshirts; we could deal with clouds and sporadic rain by seeking shelter; but two all day rains were unbearable. Both days started the same; threatening but not raining. Damp turned to mist, mist turned to drizzle, drizzle turned to rain. The first time, we got soaked and cold on our ride downwind to Athlone. Once wet, the only way to keep warm was to keep pedaling. The second time, we sought shelter – in the pubs.
The pub was in the center of Balispittle. There were several patrons at the bar. The obligatory discussion of the weather commenced. Patron 1 said “I never listen to the forecast because its either wrong or bad.” Patron 2 continued “You know, Ireland is a beautiful country but for the weather.” I reported that after our first day’s ride I had been told that the weather hadn’t been “fine” for 2 years. At this comment, everyone including the proprietor thought a retrospective moment and then nodded in agreement.
Our pub conversation ranged onward. The pub owner, seeing us glancing outside as the rain diminished back to a drizzle, recommended that we closely observe the statue of the Virgin Mary in a Grotto at the edge of town. He had been instrumental in the making of this shrine some years before and since then there had been a number of reported miracles in that the statue was detected to move.
We understand that most Irish people who can afford it make pilgrimages to the famous religious shrines of Ireland and Europe. We asked if the pub proprietor had been to Lourdes in France where miraculous cures have been reported,. “Of course” he replied. All in the pub had been to Knock, a holy shrine in the northern part of the Irish Republic. Everyone knew at least someone who had been to Rome. Religion is palpable in everyday life. Where else would you discuss religious shrines over beer? Sunday church service creates traffic jams in every small village.
So now I think I understand the progression toward a miracle. First Church, then the Pub for the rest of the day because of the poor weather and then on the way home the miracle is observed.
