Roads: 6
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The beautiful coast road
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The Adriatic Highway runs 600 Ks between Rijeka and Dubrovnik. As a ride, the highway is not especially strenuous, since there are no major passes to cross. Ferry service is plentiful along the coast to get you off the main highway and onto the paved minor roads on the islands. In the off season, the main coastal road was quieter which allowed us to use this well engineered road. The terrain dictates that there are endless twists and turns which really make the biking fun.
Traffic: 5
During July and August traffic on the one and only coast road is very heavy. The solution is either to tour out of season or to “island-hop” down the coast, taking advantage of the offshore islands to cut out sections of the highway. During the high season, large sections of the main coast road were closed to cyclist between 3PM and 8PM. It’s better to avoid this high season for your cycle tour.
Weather: 5
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The Coast Road
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The heat can be intense during high summer. Mid April, when we were there in 1987, was especially cold, rainy and windy. The Bora, a fierce cold northeasterly wind, blew. We were forced to walk our bikes around corners to avoid being knocked off during the Bora. To avoid the summer heat and the big tourist crowds, biking is best in the spring or the fall. But avoid going too early like we did or too late (the high season).
Winds: 3
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Beautiful Day on the Coast Road
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Wind can be a bothersome element along the coast. The locals claim that the north winds usher in clear skies and rain comes with the wind from the south. So, with luck, it’s best for favorable tail winds to ride from North to South. When the winds are strong, the coastal ride can be risky. Because of the serpentine indentations that the main highway follows, the wind vectors can make radical switches. In 1987, in April, the Bora kicked up and we would dismount at the promontories to avoid the sudden wind thrusts that could blow us into the traffic or into the sea.
Scenery: 8
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Harbour on the coast
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The Dalmatian shore has a natural splendor made fragile by decades of intense tourism. The whole coast is dominated by karst scenery. Its rocky coastline has many indentations and the backdrop of mountains or islands are viewed over surprisingly clear blue water. The ever-changing views from the saddle are excellent. In general, the islands are low, sometimes covered in dark green vegetation and vineyards with shore villages of red roofs or completely barren and waterless. Litter was a problem.
Information: 6
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Looking down on villages from the main road
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There are the usual general Guide books. Larger towns along the Adriatic Coast usually have lots of tourist officers. Almost all of them have staffs that are helpful and polite, and you’ll be able to check on lodgings and get city maps. As for bicycle specific information, you’ll have to rely on overall European guides that have a chapter or two dedicated to the Adriatic coast of Croatia. Back in the 80’s we browsed through, ”Europe by Bike” by Karen and Terry Whitehill and “Cycling Europe” by our favorite guide book author Nicholas Crane.
Road Safety: 6
The main coastal highway at times could be downright dangerous. In heavy traffic we clung to the edge of the narrow road at times with nary any barrier between us and the precipitous drop off. Where there were roadsides, they were strewn with broken glass. This being said, the drivers intended to be courteous. So to avoid this situation, its best to get onto the quiet roads of the islands and time your trip to avoid the peak summer season. In places, the main road was closed to bicyclist in afternoons, probably for the cyclist own protection.
General Safety: 6
Without a doubt where there are lots of tourists with full pockets there are those who want to empty those pockets. This was the case along the coast. Reasonable precautions will save you from this. In April, when we were there, the pick pockets etc. had not arrived yet so we had no issues. Back in the 80’s, violent crime was not usual.
Value: 7
This was some of the most inexpensive tourist living to be found anywhere in Western Europe. Groceries were extremely cheap but were of a lower quality. Restaurant meals were a good bargain in Croatia especially the house wines. For accommodation, the Sobes, the rooms in private homes, were, hands down, the best deal. They are very good value and also offer closer contact with the Croatians themselves.
Fluids: 8
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Dubrovnik at a distance
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In the main cities, we drank the tap water but mostly we consumed bottled water. There were plenty of supermarkets to purchase water, beer, wine and other beverages at very reasonable prices. The Croatians have borrowed from the ethnic groups who have passed through here over the centuries. The Turks, who were here, left them with the rich strong style coffee. Beer and wine were all excellent. All the other stuff, soda and juices were available. Stores on the coast were plentiful.
Food: 7
Groceries are incredibly cheap. But also the standard of the goods sold was lower than the rest of Western Europe. Restaurant meals are a good bargain. Cafes are great places for quick snacks. The Croatian (much like Serbian) food is excellent. Meat and cheese pies (Burek) and stuffed cabbage (Sarma) were some of our favorites. In April, the restaurants were closing early; you’d have to order by 8PM. The ubiquitous ice cream shops were open later for dessert.
Accomodations: 6
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Dubrovnik
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Hotels, Inns and campsites are found at frequent intervals along the coast. The price difference between a Sobe, a room in a private home, and a campground was small. We steered clear of the hotels. These are mostly holiday highrises with inflated prices especially when staying for only one night. They’re meant for the European beach tourists for extended stays. Rather, we looked for the rooms in private homes. These “Sobes” were available almost everywhere along the coast. We were delighted by our hosts’ hospitality and cleanliness of their rooms.
People: 7
In Croatia, in general, the people were somewhat leery initially, but warmed quickly, especially to cyclists. On the coast, where tourists of all sorts have come for decades, the people embrace tourism and are very open and helpful. Because the Croatians are friendly, gracious people, you’ll get by very well even though you’ll find fewer English speakers here than in other European countries.
Culture: 7
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Our B & B was at the top of these stairs. We had to carry our bikes to the top.
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Western modernism contrasted with Eastern orthodoxy was just one of the complexities that made Croatia a challenging stimulating and rewarding country for bicycling. These are the southern Slavs. To the west and north of Dubrovnik, the Serbo-Croat language is written in the Roman alphabet. Further east they use the Cyrillic alphabet. Dubrovnik is basically on the border between theses East West influences and therefore culturally of great interest.
History: 7
The most interesting towns along the coast, and the most crowded too, are Zadar, Sibenik, Trogir, Split and Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik, the pearl of the entire coast, is completely walled and barred to all wheeled traffic except bicycles. Like Greece, Yugoslavia rejoices in a largely rugged and wild interior, a beautiful coastline, hot summer weather and a powerful history which brings color and interest to many of its towns and villages. There have been many invaders, all leaving some degree of influence. It started with the Romans in the fifth century and ended with the Austro-Hungarians.
TOTAL SCORE 94